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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.